Mike's Digital Camera Page

Last updated 12/21/04 (fixed a few typos) My latest Pronto CCF (zipped version).

Nikon Coolpix 900

Fuji MX-700

Olympus D-300L

Olympus D-320L

Ricoh RDC-2

Kodak DC-120

Ricoh RDC-300

Canon PowerShot 600

Olympus D-600L

In Between?

Olympus C-2000Z New!

 

This site, which began in the fall of '96, is for my informal observations, tips, links, photos, and criticisms (good and bad) of the various digital cameras I have used. Naturally, this is a moving target! If you have a suggestion, or comment, feel free to Email me.

A Little Background

I'm Mike Lynch, digital camera (and other assorted tecno-gadgets) nut. I develop software for the newspaper and publishing industry in beautiful Lake Havasu City, AZ (new home to the London Bridge). The weather here is always easy to predict--hot and sunny. Believe it or not you really do get used to this kind of heat (at least I have). I used to think, when living back east, that 95 degrees Fahrenheit was incredibly hot--now that's not even hot enough to go for a swim! Enough about me, on to the digital cameras.

 

Digital Camera Trials and Tribulations

I have been using digital cameras for several years now. I began with an Epson Photo PC which was used for work (not a good camera for that, I know). Although many have criticized this camera, I was amazed at what it could do (in its time of course). But, more important, it was enough to get me hooked on digital photography. I should note that while growing up I looked up to Superman, not Jimmy Olsen. So don’t expect professional analysis of film Vs. digital. I do find myself learning more about traditional photography, but I’m learning it from the digital side first. This is kind of ironic if you think about it. What follows is my firsthand experiences with a number of digital cameras. Even though I didn't keep most of the cameras, it is important to note that I don't "hate" any of them. They all fill a different niche in the digital camera arena. Click on any of the camera pictures to take you to the manufacturer's web site for that particular camera (if still available).

Olympus D-300L (November, 1996)

In early November of 1996, I bought an Olympus D-300L. Several images on this page came from that camera. The two images below were shot at the "High" resolution of 1024 x 768. They were then reduced to 640 x 480 to cut down on file size (the dragon was then cropped). No other image manipulation was performed.

The London Bridge in Lake Havasu City, AZ.

Entrance to the English village.

I ended up getting rid of (later regretting) the D-300L after about two months. I did so because I thought the lens was a little too wide for my tastes, the color seemed off, and there was no control over JPEG compression. However, looking back at my D-300L's images, they aren't bad for a consumer digital camera from '96.
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Ricoh RDC-2 (December, 1996)

After the Olympus I got the RDC-2 thinking it was the answer to my perceived problems with the D-300L. I loved the hi-tech look of this camera. This was also my first introduction to video-out on a digicam--something that I used a lot initially, then less and less so. I did like many of the cool features this camera had (it always drew a crowd in public). However, I didn't really care for its image quality (it was excellent at macro shots though). I found myself missing the D-300L's sharp images. I know some have praised (and still others agree with my assessment) the Ricoh's image quality, I thought it lacked detail. So, I returned this camera, before I was stuck with something I figured I wouldn't be happy with (Although I kind of hated to see this one go too!).
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Canon PowerShot 600 (January, 1997)

After the Ricoh I became convinced that my real pursuit was of image quality. Nothing else mattered. That being the case, at the end of January, 1997, I bought the PowerShot. The Canon had an uncompressed mode so was capable of images that were (in my opinion, at that time) even better than the D-300L's (even though at a slightly lower resolution). It also had a more normal lens rather than the wide-angle of the D-300L--something I thought I'd appreciate. The camera had no "cool" features (except sound recording which was useless when using the PCMCIA Hard Drive) of prior cameras. No LCD, no video out, and it was quite large and bulky. Still, I was through chasing down digicams (for awhile) and decided to hold on to this a bit.

I did like the images I was getting, but soon grew indifferent to the thing (neglecting it, if you will). The PowerShot 600 had a rechargeable battery that, while nice, always seemed to die on me when I needed it most (and you couldn't just throw in some AA's). In addition, charging the battery was an overnight affair. Yes, I could have bought an extra battery, but my interest in this camera was beginning to wane.

Then, even the lens started to get to me. I often couldn't get my shot because of the lack of a wide-angle lens. Yes, you can buy a wide-angle adapter to attach to the camera (adding even more bulk), but I was not going to invest anymore in this puppy. I now decided that maybe the wide-angle of the D-300L wasn't so bad after all--more of the scene is better than not capturing it at all! I finally sold the PowerShot in early September of '97--this time I had no regrets.
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Ricoh RDC-300 (September, 1997)

After the Canon I thought I'd get back to a camera with real digital camera features. The RDC-300 seemed like a quick fix. This time the size of the camera was smaller than the RDC-2 and seemed even "cooler" looking. It had 4 megabytes of on- board memory (no chance for expansion, but it seemed enough to me, back then), so was ready to go, right out of the box. It fit in my shirt pocket with ease--no problem taking the camera everywhere. However, the RDC-300 had only 640 x 480 resolution, so I soon outgrew it (I really have nothing but praise for the little gem though). I (sadly) exchanged it for a (higher-priced) Kodak DC-120, a mere 10 days later.
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Kodak DC-120 (September, 1997)

I had heard about the DC-120 (before it was released) about the time I bought the Canon PowerShot 600. After its release, and initial reviews, I felt I should have waited for it instead of getting the Canon. So, all the time I had the PowerShot I was wanting the Kodak. Basically, I think I built myself up for a let down.

I was convinced the Kodak was going to be my dream camera. When I finally got it I was disappointed. I didn't like its large size (having the RDC-300 right before it didn't help). I hated the user interface (numerous button presses to accomplish simple tasks--even to just delete an image). I was completely disappointed by the LCD--it was as if Kodak just slapped it on the back as an afterthought (again, having the RDC-300 right before this camera made the LCD seem that much worse). Worst of all, most of my "people" shots seemed to be very grainy and/or blurry. When I learned that with the macro mode you had to manually set the focus by inputting the number of inches away from the subject, I just said no--this marriage was over. I actually was glad to see this camera go.

It wasn't until I examined some of the shots I took with it that I realized I may have judged the DC-120 prematurely (same old story). Sample shots on the web sure do look good. Maybe I got a defective camera? I still think the skin tone shots were too grainy for me (and that just may be intentional since they don't look bad from a distance). I knew I wouldn't be using the manual settings much, so wouldn't miss them as features (many like the DC-120's manual exposure controls). The bottom line is that you often judge digital cameras by your own expectations--which works both ways. I've seen many first time digicam users who, not expecting much, are thrilled with their cameras. These same cameras (to me anyway--I won't mention brands but will say that one of them is a rather large supplier of watches) are quite low in quality (not necessarily price). Yet the users are happy--I guess that's what it's all about.
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Olympus D-320L (September, 1997)
(sample photos)

Well I'd finally come full circle! After a year of digital photography I was right back where I began (albeit with a newer model). I received this camera a day or two after its release. After all my experimenting I knew that had I just stayed with the D-300L in the first place, I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort. (Then again maybe it's the pursuit that's the fun part.) Plus, the D-320L had some nice improvements over the D-300L. It had video out, better LCD, removable memory,  higher quality JPEG mode, and more. I felt like I was home again. Back to a small (smaller than the D-300L), high quality, digital camera. I was upset that one of my most wanted features of the D-300L--a better HQ JPEG option--while implemented, required the camera to be connected to a PC to use. So you had to decide in advance if you wanted the super high quality (HQ2) mode--and set it via the PC. This mode creates three times as large files (not resolution) over HQ1 so severely limits your storage capacity. You can change to the 640 x 480 (SQ) mode with the camera--but that is quite a bit of a step down from HQ2.
UPDATE 11/22/97: I have now got the 8 MB SmartMedia (SSFDC) cards so leaving the camera in HQ2 is not much of a problem (easily 18 pictures per card).
 
UPDATE 12/15/97: I sold my D-320L due to the purchase of a D-600L.

Of course (back in the fall of '97) there were other cameras from Olympus on the horizon...

My sample D-320L photos.
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Olympus D-600L (November, 1997)
(sample photos)

I felt like the king of the mountain when I got the D-320L. It was tops. But soon a new camera was released that would change all that (along with its brother the D-500L). I felt betrayed. Depressed even. I humbly watched as the first wave of D-600L users came to rec.photo.digital and discussed their baby. I read as the first focus problems were reported. "Good." I thought. "I'm glad I didn't wait for that camera." But others were finding ways around the problem and making extraordinary claims about it--raving about its "mind blowing" image quality. I could see that while my D-320L was a fantastic camera, I hadn't really moved forward in the last year as far as image quality was concerned.

After some deliberations between the D-500L and the D-600L, I bought the D-600L. The D-500L was also a great camera--I just felt I needed to get past its 1024 x 768 resolution. I was soon amazed at the quality of the D-600L myself. I could see vibrant colors, incredible detail, and not a trace of the jaggies. Definitely the best digicam I had ever used or owned--there is no question about that.

But it still seemed like all digicams came with compromises (and, for the most part, they still do). With the D-600L it was with the auto-focus system (in low light it didn't lock very well, and even when it did a blurry image was possible). Others have had trouble with the auto-exposure system--I found it quite good compared to my other digicams (and it did have spot metering which can be very useful). I and other users, back in late '97 and early '98, began to figure out the best ways to work around the focus issue:

You definitely needed to get used to the auto-focus system of the camera. Some people, even some in the media, who were not too familiar with traditional SLR cameras, judged the D-600L prematurely (in my opinion, naturally).
UPDATE 11/21/97: I read a post on rec.photo.digital explaining how, through an SLR, the human eye can focus an unfocused scene. I thought I was going crazy  a few times when I swore the scene was in focus when I took the shot, yet was obviously not when the image was later viewed. The poster went on to indicate that you should relax your eye and not let your eye focus the scene (the focus ring should always be in focus).

Since the camera is ISO 100 equivalent, camera shake occurs easily in low light (and low light is where the problems occur, obviously). A steadier hand (duhhh!) has helped me on many shots.
UPDATE 11/21/97:
I now think a lot of my out of focus shots were indeed due to camera shake. I didn't think so at first because they just looked "fuzzy" whereas shots with major camera movement had an almost double image look (I'm now thinking that I really blew it on those shots).

Not clear how to best use the two "Quick Focus" buttons. These buttons are supposed to allow a quick focus at two preset ranges, but many users have not mastered the use of them (there is help in the FAQ on this subject).
UPDATE 11/19/97:
I'm finally getting the hang of these controls.
UPDATE 11/22/97: Another rec.photo.digital post by Pier Rodelon indicated that he had tested the actual focus distance of these these modes. He posted some of the results on his web site. They might be gone by now though, as he changes his site quite frequently--but it's worth the trip there anyway.

UPDATE 2/10/98: Sadly, Pier has sold his D-600L. He still has good info about it though.

Misc. D-600L Notes

11/26/97 The Case
I just received the Olympus leather case for the D-500L/D-600L (photo of case--shot with D-600L, photo of case with camera--shot with D-320L). I think it was well worth the $30.41 plus shipping (CMPExpress.com). It fits the camera very well, without adding too much bulk. I tried general purpose camera bags and thought that (due to the camera's shape) it required too large a bag for the D-600L. This case has a handy side pocket for an extra set of batteries, and another pocket in the top (could be used for SSFDC cards, filters, lens cleaning kit, etc.). I highly recommend this case to anyone who has or is considering the D-600L.

11/26/97 The SmartMedia PCMCIA Adapter
I also got a Simple Technology SmartMedia to PCMCIA  adapter (photo). This was 79.95 plus shipping from State Street Direct (I also bought my 8 MB SmartMedia from them). I have a notebook computer so did not need to bother with a PCMCIA adapter for my PC. No drivers of any kind (or even any instructions) were included with the adapter, but none were needed since Windows 95 easily recognized the device and configured it on its own. This adapter makes copying files from the card to the computer a breeze (and it is read/write so you can rename or copy files to the card). I did not buy the AC adapter for my D-600L because I felt it is really only needed for transferring images from the camera to the computer--something that is now handled by the adapter. I recommend that, if possible, you not buy the AC adapter and instead buy either the PCMCIA adapter, or the SmartMedia floppy disk adapter. The money spent for the AC adapter will have been wasted if you later buy one of the SmartMedia adapters (What will the AC adapter be used for?). In my case the SmartMedia PCMCIA adapter was not much more than Olympus' AC adapter (and theirs is the only adapter Olympus states you can use). If you need to buy a PCMCIA adapter for your computer, then the the cost of that needs to be factored in the equation.

UPDATE 12/22/98: There are now several card readers available for SmartMedia that allow you to use your SSFDCs directly, no adapter needed. These readers generally work via parallel port connection, but USB models are starting to appear.

2/23/98 The DCS-1 Slave Flash
I bought a DCS-1 slave flash for use with my Olympus D-600L from SR, Inc. for $89.95. It appears that the DCS-1 started out in life as a basic auto thyristor flash. To it slave trigger circuitry, optical sensor, and a two position switch on the rear (labeled "Trigger on 1 Flash" and "Trigger on 2 Flashes") have been added. These have been done quite well and in fact I would not have even thought about them being added if not for the included manual that shows the flash in its original form. I had some fears originally that maybe the DCS-1 was simply a standard slave that some enterprising soul found worked with digicams. This is not the case--it has been designed to specifically work with digicams (as well as non-digital cameras). I will state that I've tried various slaves with my D-600L with no success. The camera fires a pre-flash that triggers the slave before the actual exposure. Since the camera meters off this pre-flash for final white balance and exposure info, it resulted in darker images, not brighter (since the slave light present during the pre-flash metering is not there for the actual exposure).

Well the DCS-1 actually works! It fires perfectly on the second flash of the D-600L. Of course now we have the flip side of the equation: The camera is receiving far more light during its exposure than it counted on (based on its pre-flash metering). So I will state that a "perfect" digital slave should fire a pre-flash, just like the digicam does (I have an idea on this--but now isn't the time).

Here are a couple of quick shots taken with, and without, the DCS-1. They were taken in my backyard on a dark, damp, evening (courtesy of El Nino). There were no outside lights on, and I used one of the quick focus buttons (2.5M/8ft) to lock focus:
Without Slave
With Slave

There is also a FAQ available on the D-600L at:
http://www.leesoft.com/d600l/OlympusFAQ.html

My sample D-600L photos. (More coming. Who am I kidding?)

UPDATE 7/10/98: Sadly, I've sold my D-600L. Even though I sold it, it remains, as of this writing (12/11/98), the champion of image quality of all digital cameras I've owned.

UPDATE 12/10/98: As you might already know, Olympus has released an updated model based on the D-600L, called the D-620L. It has a flash synch connector, so it should be much easier to use the camera with external flashes. It also has other improvements, such as the ability to use 16 MB SSFDCs (the D-600L can only use up to 8 MB cards, but can be sent to Olympus for an upgrade to allow 16 MB). The D-620L also has (greatly) improved shot recycle speed (it's practically like shooting with film). Also, the D-620L has an additional quick focus option, something that was a bit lacking on the D-600L. In most other respects, it's identical to a D-600L (although some claim it is a little better at low-light focusing). Since I already had a D-600L, the D-620L is not improved enough to attract me. If it had LCD preview, video out, as well as a higher resolution LCD, I might be more tempted (although even then, I'd be much happier if the overall resolution had been increased as well).
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Fuji MX-700 (May, 1998)
(sample photos)

It's now been over six months since getting the D-600L. While I still like it a lot, I find that I don't use it as much as I could. This is primarily due to its large size and the fact that, in addition to the camera, I need to take the case, extra batteries, etc. with me when I want to use it. Enter the MX-700. The MX-700 is a completely different animal from the D-600L. It is so small you wonder how so many features were packed into such a tiny package. It's been traveling in my shirt pocket--and I barely know it's there.

How do I like it so far? Well there is one important feature missing--ZOOM. I knew this going in, so I shouldn't really complain about it (there is a digital zoom , but I don't consider that a zoom at all). I was willing to give up a zoom for a camera that is truly "pocketable." There are other digicams that are in this size range, but, as of this writing, they do not approach the resolution or feature set of the MX-700.

Did I mention I like its size? Well, even though the MX-700 is not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes, it's not really hard to get used to. I have large hands and have easily adapted to shooting with one hand, or for steadier shots, two (believe it or not, it's pretty easy to hold with two hands). You've probably heard about its aluminum alloy body--that is pretty cool--but, in my opinion, not extremely important. However, it is an indication of the care that went into the design and construction of this camera. A lot of attention to detail. The SmartMedia door is spring loaded and pops open. The SmartMedia itself is ejected like a push-button switch. The battery cover slides out, then down--seems pretty solid. There are rubber strips strategically placed to ensure a firm grip on the camera. A recessed contrast wheel for the LCD display prevents if from inadvertently being turned. There doesn't appear to be any flimsy flaps or covers that are destined to break off.

I don't think its image quality matches the D-600L, but it's good. And, I should note, some people actually prefer its quality over the Olympus. The MX-700 is easier to use than the D-600L though. You don't have to worry about finding something bright to focus on when indoors--or have to reach for the quick-focus buttons to shoot. The MX-700 has, so far, never refused to take a shot, and they rarely come out blurry. So for quick, "just get the shot" type of stuff, I guess the MX-700 could outperform the Olympus. Still, the Olympus really shines outdoors with plenty of light. I think under those conditions the D-600L easily beats the MX-700. But, indoors with flash, the MX-700 has the upper hand (not that its flash is fantastic though, it's still a bit on the weak side).

I must admit that this camera is packed with features. Some of my favorites:

Five Second Save Time
Five seconds between shots may not be ideal, but much better than the digital cameras I've used before (with save times of at least twice that). I've learned to live with this delay on other digital cameras, and I had no choice. Now, with the MX-700, the save time is not much different than a film camera (at least when using flash). This allows more freedom in shooting, and you don't have to worry that you took the shot too soon (waiting for the camera to save while the important shot passes by). Another plus, unlike other cameras, is that the camera can still save in five seconds in its highest quality mode (file size of about 600k). I know that the camera has at least 2 megabytes of ram, so I'm thinking that it caches the image to ram to speed up save times.

Shot Preview Before Save
This is very useful. The camera can be set to show the shot on the LCD after it's taken (similar to the D-600L). But, it doesn't simply show it, and then save it. It shows the shot and lets you decide whether to keep it or not. If you cancel, you can take the shot again almost immediately.

"Smart" SmartMedia
Not really a feature, but worth mentioning as an example of the "beyond what was needed" engineering that went into this camera. First, the camera will read either 3.3 or 5 volt SmartMedia (SSFDC). I don't have any 5 volt, but if you were upgrading from an earlier 5 volt SSFDC camera, you might like that you can still use your SSFDCs. Second, the camera treats SSFDCs as if they really are floppy disks. You can insert and remove SSFDCs while the camera is on (the camera will recognize the new SSFDC almost instantly). I was able to fill up an SSFDC while shooting (I was even using the LCD as a viewfinder), and pop in a new one without missing a beat. The live LCD didn't even go off, "No Card" was superimposed over the LCD until I popped in another SSFDC.

You can even use the camera to copy (up to nine images) from one SSFDC to another. I was skeptical when I read about this feature in the manual, but it certainly works. The camera must have quite a bit of on-board ram to hold those nine images while you swap in the second SSFDC to copy them to.

To top it off the camera displays images taken with my D-600L (I removed the SSFDC from the Olympus and popped it into the Fuji). These D-600L images are not even in the same directory that Fuji uses--and they use a different naming convention (the Fuji saves in \Imfidx10 with file names like DSC00001.JPG whereas the Olympus uses \Imolym with filenames like PIC00001.JPG). The MX-700 even displays the "IMOLYM" directory name on the LCD (right above the file name of the image) when displaying the Olympus images. It will also display mixed images on the SSFDC (D-600L and its own), automatically switching directories as needed. That's what I call going the extra mile. (BTW: The D-600L won't display the Fuji's images even if I manually copy them to its \Imolym directory and rename them using its naming convention). You might not have another digital camera to utilize this feature, but it could be useful for copying sample images to the SSFDC (for display on a television for instance). You could even protect these images from deletion.

Included Rechargeable Lithium Ion Battery
Well I've kind of gotten used to the routine of using rechargeable AA batteries in my digital cameras. And they work rather well (particularly Nickel-Metal Hydride). So, I thought having a proprietary battery in a digital camera would be a disadvantage (if you run out of juice you can't pick up AA alkalines, which are available just about anywhere). I also should mention that I was burned (figuratively of course) a number of times by my PowerShot 600's rechargeable battery--it ran down several times in the field (no AA option). Worse, if you forgot to turn it off, the PowerShot seemed to stay on (draining the battery).

Anyway, I've changed my tune with the MX-700. First, its single battery is just slightly larger than a AA (and most cameras need 4 of those). So, if I did need an extra battery, carrying it would not be a problem. Second, since I started using AA rechargeable batteries in my digital cameras (about 8 months now), I've never actually needed to buy "emergency" AA alkalines--not once. And, the MX-700's little lithium battery lasts quite a long time. Roughly, I get about the same number of shots as with my two sets of NiMh, and one set of NiCd, when using my D-600L. So, I might not ever need an extra battery. Also, there is no external charger needed with the MX-700 (although there is a two hour external charger available as an option). No need to remove the battery to charge--the camera is the charger--it charges when plugged into its included AC adapter (even that's tiny). A light on the camera indicates that it is charging, and goes off when it's finished. Pretty nice.

LCD Zoom
I wonder how I ever lived without this! This feature lets you zoom (and pan) to see the shot better. And I don't mean just a little zoom--an area that covers only 5% of the LCD before zooming can be incrementally zoomed and panned to fill the LCD. I took a quick shot of a car while stopped at a light. Before zooming the license plate was a few, barely discernible, pixels on the LCD. After zooming, I could read it.

Once you get used to this it's incredible. It even works when the camera is hooked up to a television, not just the LCD (great for sitting around the TV reviewing photos). Viewing a shot of several people, for instance, you can zoom in on a face for a closer look. With the LCD Zoom, the camera becomes much more useful for reviewing shots. It's good for showing shots to other people--who always seem to want to hold the camera to see the LCD (hey it's a new toy, you'll have to wrestle it from my clenched hand). With the MX-700, I can zoom in to give them a better view. This feature should be a "must have" for every digital camera.

Excellent 640 x 480 Mode
OK, you might think I'm crazy for bringing this up, but hear me out. You set the quality mode to "Fine" (the least amount of compression), and set the image size to 640 x 480. This yields file sizes of about 180k, which is pretty large for 640 x 480. But, the quality of these are quite good! You can resample to 1024 x 768 with no problem. Why? Because the camera uses all 1.5 million CCD elements to generate the 640 x 480 image. Contrast this to your average 640 x 480 digital camera which has about 350,000 CCD elements--big difference. I know I said I don't even consider digital zoom a zoom at all, but if you're shooting in the 640 x 480 "Fine" mode things take on a different perspective. When set this way, the zoom actually works (sort of). Now, if I am shooting in 1280 x 1024 mode, I wouldn't bother with the digital zoom. But, I do use it when in 640 x 480 mode (which takes better shots than you would think).

UPDATE 11/98: If you've read my Nikon Coolpix 900 section (below), you already know I don't have the MX-700 anymore (primarily due to its lack of zoom). But, it looks like Fuji is going to be releasing a newer model, based on the MX-700, that does contain an optical zoom. When this is released (in the U.S.), I'll be taking a close look at it.

My sample MX-700 photos.
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Nikon Coolpix 900 (May, 1998)
(sample photos)

I think the MX-700 is a fantastic camera--well designed, good battery, good pics, etc. But, I could just not get over the lack of zoom. I know some people maintain that it simply requires a different style of shooting, but it got to me just the same. Reluctantly, and with a bit of remorse, I exchanged my MX-700 for a Nikon 900. After all my ravings about the Fuji, here I am with the Nikon.

To MX-700 owners: Please don't think of me as a traitor or anything. I have nothing but praise for the Fuji, I just had to have a zoom.

The Nikon is of course larger than the Fuji, but I did find I can keep it in my shirt pocket (casual shirt, fairly large pocket). Strangely, this was important to me. I don't mind a camera around my neck too much, but I sometimes take a camera to places where that might seem out of place. So fitting in a shirt pocket (even if a bit bulky), is important to me. The size of the Nikon is, in my opinion, just inside the range of what I'd accept in a go-everywhere type camera (with the Fuji being ideal). Also, the Nikon is still less bulky than my D-600L--which has been getting neglected lately.

Anyway, here are some brief thoughts of the Nikon in relation to the Fuji:

Likes
Zoom!!!
Swivel Lens (It makes using LCD as viewfinder more useful.)
Multi-shot "Motor Drive" mode (Really works.)
Auto white balance (It seems the Fuji stumbled in some low light shots.)
Less "noise" in pix (mainly people)
Pix seem "sharper" (just me?)
Compact Flash (I'd rather have one big CF than 6 SSFDCs.)
Brighter pix (in general)
Better flash (in general)
Brighter LCD for shot composition
Bigger and brighter optical viewfinder
Infinity focus lock (This is real handy.)
Did I mention Zoom?

Dislikes
Larger than Fuji (Duhh!)
General interface speed is slower
Battery (Really no worse than my D-600L, but I loved the Fuji's battery.)
Miss the Fuji's LCD zoom and pan
Doesn't always lock focus (Camera will usually still shoot though--and generally the shot will be in focus--unlike the D-600L.)

Other Stuff
The Nikon and the Fuji have, of course, different form factors. If size is very important, the Fuji is it. I personally couldn't live with its lack of zoom (hate to harp on this issue--because the Fuji did yield excellent images). It's not just the zoom either. It's the (fairly) wide angle lens that got in the way. I'd see something I wanted to shoot, but the camera saw much more than that--with my area of interest reduced to a low number of pixels in the center of the image (to be fair, the Fuji's high resolution helps with this--you have some breathing room for cropping). And then, to get close-ups of people, you need to be right on top of them (and if you're too close, their noses get 20% bigger :-)). Still, the Fuji is a fun camera--a pleasure to use.

The Nikon has the split design thing going for it. I'm starting to like it. I like using the LCD to frame shots, so the rotating lens makes this fun, and useful. The Fuji's LCD, on the other hand, is flat against the back of the camera (and not really viewable from much of an angle). I find myself using the LCD as a viewfinder on the Nikon quite a bit more than I did with the Fuji. Of course the Nikon, by default, starts up with the LCD on. Yes, this drains the batteries faster, but I like it (and it can be turned off if desired)

I've also noticed that the Nikon's LCD has a higher refresh rate than the Fuji's. And, its LCD is brighter (when used as a viewfinder, not talking about when used to playback images). The Fuji has a convenient brightness wheel below the LCD that helps to brighten it, but it doesn't seem to reach the level of the Nikon (and when you crank the wheel up, it messes up the LCD brightness during image playback).

Oddly, image playback is a bit nicer with the Fuji. Mainly, because it's a tad faster, and has that great LCD zoom/pan (the Nikon does zoom during playback, but it's only one level, and it's only the center area that gets zoomed--no panning). The Fuji doesn't allow image deletion during normal image playback though, I thought that was a bit inconvenient. It has a separate delete mode, which does show the images on the LCD (sans LCD zoom). But, I like to be able to delete when in normal playback mode (the Nikon allows this, as do most digital cameras I've used).

Well, I'm sure I'll have a lot more to write about, but that'll have to wait until I get more familiar with the camera.

My sample Coolpix 900 photos.
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New Thoughts (December, 1998)

Well, I've had the Nikon Coolpix 900 for over six months now, and I was hoping to be ready to move on to something else by now. But, there isn't very much out there that can out-do the Nikon. Still, I've been looking closely at several cameras.

The Olympus D-400Z is currently topping my list. It is even smaller than the D-320L, has 1280 x 960 resolution, and an optical zoom. The samples I've seen from it so far seem about as good as the Nikon. Since I already have a Nikon 900, why would I consider it, you might ask. Size. I really loved the Fuji MX-700's size, and would like to have another camera in that category (although Fuji is releasing a version of the MX-700 with an optical zoom, so that could be very nice). While the Nikon is great (it really is), it kind of falls in between the compact sized cameras, and the larger SLR sized offerings (like the Olympus D-600L). So my latest thinking is I might need one of each (and for lack of something outstanding in the SLR-sized market, the Nikon just might fill that role) Confused? Welcome to my world.

Anyway, it bears mentioning that the Minolta 1500 is another compact model that has my attention. It's similar in size to the D-400Z, but has some unique features of its own (upgradable CCD for one).

On the larger-sized front several models (sort of) interest me. The Sony D700, and the Canon PS Pro 70 both look pretty good, albeit a bit overpriced (in my opinion). The Canon seems to offer the better quality, possibly better than the Olympus D-600L (I still use the D-600L as a barometer to judge quality, even though, a year after its release, I certainly thought it would have been long since surpassed). The Sony, on the other hand, has a nice 5x zoom (whereas the Canon is not even up to par, zoom-wise). If I could take the zoom from the Sony, combine it with the quality of the Canon, and throw in another 50% resolution for good measure, I'd probably have an SLR-sized camera that I'd be happy with. Anyway, it looks like I'll have to wait until well into 1999 for that type of camera to appear (it seems we've hit a bit of a "ceiling," resolution wise, since there really hasn't been too much of an increase over last year). Of course, I'm only referring to consumer/prosumer level digital cameras, I know I can get what I want now--in pro level equipment.

UPDATE 12/29/98: Well, I made it past Christmas without buying another digital camera! Who'd have imagined that? I did come close to buying an Olympus D-400Z, while I was out shopping one day, but backed off. First, it was at CompUSA (as in full list price). Second, I'm still not convinced it would be enough of an improvement, over my Nikon 900, to justify the purchase. My primary reason for wanting the 400Z is due to its size--you just can't throw the Nikon in a shirt pocket and go.

There are rumors that Olympus is going to release a two megapixel camera soon--maybe I should just wait for it. It'll probably be based on the 600/620 design (SLR), so I guess I'll be complaining about its size a few months later. Perhaps I need (want?) a tiny camera like the 400Z, for everyday use, and a larger SLR sized model, to use when image quality is top priority. Maybe that's why my Nikon 900 is holding out so long--it's a little bit of both.

New New Thoughts (March, 1999)

Well, I've (somehow) managed to get through my D-400Z temptation. I now feel that I might as well wait for the 2+ megapixel cameras that are due any day now. Specifically, I'm interested in the Nikon Coolpix 950, and the Olympus 2000Z. The Nikon is a major leap ahead in not only resolution, but features. Yet, it is actually smaller, and tougher, than the Coolpix 900/900s. Sounds like a winner to me. The Olympus 2000Z's design is a bit of a departure from their previous designs, and I'll have to see if I like it or not (not large like the 600/620, yet not as small as the 400Z). I really thought Olympus would have used their SLR design when they entered the 2 megapixel range. The good news is that Olympus just announced their 2500L, with 2.5 megapixel resolution. This camera, due out this summer, or fall, is based on an SLR design, although different than the 600/620 line. It looks like the next six months will be a hot time for digital cameras.
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Olympus C-2000Z (May, 1999)

(sample photos)

It's hard to believe, but I actually made it through an entire year without getting a new digital camera. The Nikon 900 served me well during this time, and indeed there wasn't really any camera that's come out since that really attracted me enough to switch. Until now.

With the release of the Nikon Coolpix 950, and all the glowing pre-release reviews, I really expected my next camera to be it (and, who knows, that might still happen). Still, after being bit by the "early adopter" bug once too often, I decided to hold off a little. As expected, once the Nikon hit the streets the reviews were a little more realistic (although still very positive, for the most part). I guess the thing that worried me, about the 950, was reports of its LCD being totally useless outdoors (worse than usual). Not a big deal to some, but to me--living in sunny Arizona--I was a little worried. I then started to hear several comments about items that would need to get fixed in the next firmware update. Not that I see this as a major issuel, but I no longer buy anything with the hopes that something will be fixed/improved/added in the future. Again, the camera is definitely great, as-is, but these issues did take a bit of the "must-have" desire away from me.

My next choice was the Olympus C-2000Z. This had been my "second" choice for several reasons. For one thing, it uses SmartMedia--a memory format that I didn't relish going back to. The second thing was its non-swivel design (I really enjoyed the swivel design of my Nikon 900). I also thought its LCD only contained 70,000 pixels, and could not be "zoomed" and "panned" (see my Fuji MX-700 review). Finally, I thought the Olympus was going to be bigger than the Nikon--and more cumbersome. It turns out I was wrong on most counts. The 2000Z's LCD contains 114,000 pixels, which is still lower than the Nikon's, but much better than the 70,000 number I read in some reviews (of course it's only 1.8" in size, compared to the Nikon's 2"). Plus, you most certainly can zoom-in while reviewing photos on the LCD (1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0), which IMO is a must-have feature. As for size, the 2000Z was surprisingly small, once I had the chance to actually hold one. To top it off, it appears the 2000Z's LCD--for whatever reason--is more readable in sunlight than the Nikon's. For these, and a few other, reasons (ease of use, being one), I decided to go for the Olympus. With larger SmartMedia available now, than when I owned my last SmartMedia camera, the memory format is less of an issue (although I would still have preferred Compact Flash). In any case, this--in no way--is meant as an indictment of the Nikon 950. Indeed, I'm still very interested in it as well. But, I loved the look and feel of the C-2000Z, and I bought it!

What I like:

Construction. The camera feels well designed, and nicely put together. Although its case is not metal, it feels solid, and sturdy. (We'll see about that, now won't we?)

Image Quality. What can I say? I think I've reached the point where I now have more than I need. (Prediction: In two years I will read the previous comment and laugh at my naiveness.) Seriously though, I have always felt that the cameras I bought since selling my Olympus D-600L (Nikon 950 and Fuji MX-700) were never quite able to match the D-600L's quality, when it was at its best (when the D-600L got everything right, which was not all of the time, its quality was superb). The C-2000Z meets--and easily exceeds--the D-600L in quality. Its images also have the same (richly saturated) "look" of the D-600L (and 500L). Some people find this "look" overly saturated. Call me shallow, but I like it! Even though I thought my Nikon 900's images were good, I always thought they lacked the saturation--and vibrancy, if you will--of the Olympus.

Autofocus--it just works. It hardly ever hunts, and it rarely misses. I was expecting the usual, wait-for-focus-lock, behavior, and was pleasantly surprised. In fact, you really can just go ahead and snap a photo--no need to hold the shutter halfway while you wait for a focus lock (unless you want to). Is this important? Does it matter? I think so, for me anyway. It makes it far easier when handing the camera to someone else, so they can take a shot (no more 2 minute explanations of how to first hold the shutter half way, etc.). In my opinion, the 2000Z's autofocus system puts the "snap" back in snapshot.

Speed. No surprises here--all of the latest digital cameras are fast. Still, when you've been using the Coolpix 900 for the last year, the speed is welcome--and needed. With my 900, I sometimes didn't use the camera because I didn't feel like "waiting" for it to switch modes, turn on, and whatnot.

Remote control. This is very cool, and while I don't know how much I'll actually use it after the newness wears off, it's a great feature to have. It's very nice to use when you have the camera hooked up to a TV, since you can relax and go through the photos without being "tethered" to the camera. Obviously, it's useful when taking photos too (you can even zoom in and out with it).

Controls. At first I thought they were a little confusing, but I'm now impressed with how well Olympus crammed so many features, and settings, into a very easy to use system. You can jump around and make changes fairly quick, and with minimal menu navigation. Well done.

ISO. The 100-400 ISO is more useful than I anticipated. When the camera is set in Program mode (which is the "auto" mode), it dynamically selects the best aperture and shutter speed. This is no big deal, but if you disable the flash, the camera will throw ISO into the mix. Basically, the camera will go for a higher ISO before reaching for shutter speeds that make hand-held shots difficult (or impossible if the subject is moving). This isn't going to yield great shots, but it's a lot better than having them end up blurry. If you don't want the ISO increased, you can shoot in A (aperture priority) or S (shutter priority) modes and fiddle to your heart's content (yes, you can play with ISO in these modes too--from 100 to 400).

Exposure Compensation that works. Yes, nearly every digital camera has exposure compensation, but often there is little noticeable difference, in the photos, when actually using it. With the 2000Z, there's a dramatic difference--even using the flash (in fact, changing the exposure compensation can cause the camera to dynamically enable and disable the flash, depending on whether you went up or down). I can see that getting to know this control is going to be very useful (and it's very easy to change the compensation on the fly).

Flash. OK, I'm not really sure if this is a big issue, or not, but I thought I'd mention it. According to the manual, the 2000Z's flash range is a whopping 18.4 ft! This is at wide-angle, whereas fully zoomed it is a respectable 12.5 ft. More important than that is the fact that I haven't been getting nearly as many blown highlights (overexposed areas) in my 2000Z's flash photos as I did with my Nikon 900 (on close-ups, mainly). I found that behavior annoying with the Nikon as there is little you can do to "fix" those kind of problems. Also, red-eye is much less of a problem with the C-2000Z than with my Nikon. Yes, red-eye plagues almost all compact cameras, it's just that the Nikon seemed to be more troublesome than most. In fact, at times the red-eye was so severe that it "blossomed" slightly beyond the perimeter of the eye itself! Plus, there were many times where not a trace of the original eye color was left, so fixing the red-eye was not easy. The 2000Z, on the other hand, seems better with its red-eye reduction mode off, than the Nikon with its on. With red-eye reduction mode on, there is an even greater difference. This is most likely due to the fact that the Nikon's flash is literally right next to the lens (which is necessary due to its swivel design).

Decent battery life. At first glance the battery life of the 2000Z seemed about the same--maybe slightly better--than my Coolpix 900. I think I may have underestimated the 2000Z's battery life: I brought the camera along to an Unlimited Hydroplane race (fast, expensive, boats). After getting settled in, I went to take a shot or two, only to find out I forgot to change the batteries (NiMh that I had been using for 2-3 days) and was already getting the low battery flash--with no spares. I was still able to shoot over 30 pictures over the next couple of hours (often leaving the camera on waiting for the right shot). I took all the shots I really wanted and still had a little juice left over. My Nikon 900 would have been completely dead soon after the battery warning--one or two shots thereafter, at the maximum (possibly squeezing out a few more after the camera sat for awhile).

What I don't like:

Lens cap. Since it's not attached to anything, it's real easy to lose. Then, there's the fact that the lens cap pops off on its own if you happen to turn the camera on. I would have at least liked the cap to be tethered in some way. Maybe I'm missing something here?

LCD. Yes it's clear, bright, has a zoom for photo review, blah blah blah. But, what's with the 1.8" thing? A 2" LCD should be the minimum, in my opinion.

After-shot review. OK, you're supposed to get a big three seconds to review the shot on the LCD after it's been taken. Thanks, but no thanks. First, Olympus must be measuring in nanoseconds, since it doesn't even seem as long as three seconds to me. And, there's no way to extend this time--nor delete the image before it's saved. Since SmartMedia is already more limited, in capacity, compared to Compact Flash, the ability to immediately delete an unwanted shot would be nice. Plus, you really have no time to quickly show someone their just-taken photo for their approval, as the photo is off the screen by the time you turn the camera around for them to see. The flip side is that it is very quick to go into Review mode to show/delete the photo (and just as quick, or even faster, to return to a capture mode).

????. I'm leaving this spot blank because I know I'll find something else to complain about, eventually.


I'm sure I'll have more to add regarding the C-2000Z in the near future.

The saga continues...

Email me at mlynch@ctaz.com.

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